From Savane to Angoche: General Information
Location: From Savane to Angoche - Encompassing the northern part of
Sofala Province, the entire coast of Zambezia Province and part of the southern
Nampula Province. Home of the Chuabo, Lomwé, Sena ( Zambezia); Macua
(Nampula) ethnic groups.
Main Localities: Quelimane, Zalala Beach, Pebane, Moma, Angoche and Sangage
Lighthouse.
This was the hardest province to travel within. For geographical and political reasons, Zambezia is by far the most underdeveloped Province along the Mozambique coastline. The National road across this section of the country is made of rutted, hard sand. Not a difficult, but a slow drive. We saw no indication of road works.
Access to the Islands in this region was unsafe and difficult at this time. This may soon improve as South Africans entrepreneurs are developing at Ilha do Fogo. They have an interesting project for an environmentally sound Lodge, we'll keep you posted.
There are no road services or fuel stations available. Some of the roads towards the coast are undrivable due to lack of pontoons (bridges) over rivers and poor or no maintenance (see Roads and Services for this sector). For this reason there is a large section of the coast line that we will not report on. The portion we missed out is mainly mangrove type of vegetation and, due to the affluence of the great Zambezi River, coastal sea water is generally turbid and beaches are scarce and of difficult road access.
There are some beautiful forests fringing sections of the coastline, the access is very hard to date. Since the area is rich in many minerals and gems this forest may well have its days counted as mining companies have concessions to exploit.
The largest palm tree plantation in Mozambique is found around Pebane.
The Gile Reserve has large variety of bird life, dense wood forest and hot springs. The roads through the reserve are not well kept, but we heard it is possible to camp.
Inland the mountainous region is developing faster with tea and cotton plantations around Gorué. Worth a visit if you have time.
Quelimane, Zambezia Province
Quelimane is the Capital of this Province. The narrow road into Quelimane is good but we advise you not to arrive at night if possible, there are many people walking along, as well as cyclists and incoming traffic.
The town was founded by Arabs and was an active slave and agricultural trading port dating to the 15th century. It was built on the banks of Bons Sinais River (River of Good Omens) previously linked to the Zambezi River.
A great Portuguese Cathedral built in 1800 stands on the water front. Unfortunately it is in a poor derelict state. Another architectural feature is the modern Mosque.
Services: All main banks are available, as well as, a few ATM machines and foreign exchange bureau.
This is a busy, business orientated city; most guest houses are focused on the local businessman and offer comfortable en suite rooms with full on conference facilities (see Accommodation for this sector).
There are a couple of good restaurants in town and many bars (see Eating and Drinking for this sector).
The commercial part of town is busy and there is a large market, Quelimane is a good place to top up supplies of foods and drinks.
Touristy wise, there is not much going on along the sea front area and Port. Communication: Good cell phone reception. Internet café @ TDM near Chuabo Hotel.
Emergency Contacts:
- Hospital: 197 / +258 (0) 4 213000
- Red Cross: +258 (0) 4 212200
- Police: 119 / +258 (0) 4 213131
- Airport: +258 (0) 4 212800/6
Zalala Beach, Zambezia Province
To get there is a short drive from Quelimane (29km) along a lovely road, surrounded by endless coconut plantations and very busy with cyclists. The beach is fringed by an old pine forest that provide shelter for small, reeded bars and restaurants.
Services: There are restaurants, bar and camping available (see Accommodation for this sector). No other services available.
Communication: No cell phone reception.
TDM: +258 (0) 4 213521
Emergency Contacts:
- Hospital: As above.
- Police: 119
Pebane, Zambezia Province
Pebane has a beautiful and long beach protected by dunes, but the run off of Rio Zambezia Delta turns the sea water a little turbid.
On weekends and National Holidays the parties and discos go on through the night.
Services: This is a small town and quite isolated part of the coast line, tourists are scarce and so too facilities for visitors. Things are gradually changing though. There are two very basic guests' houses and a new fishing lodge is under development right on the beach (see Roads and Services for this sector). There is a small market where some fresh veggies, bread and other essentials can be found.
Communication: There is no cell phone reception here.
TDM, solar station for emergency calls: +258 (0) 4 215014
Emergency Contacts:
- Hospital: Not available. Nearest hospital is in Quelimane
- Police: 119
Moma, Nampula Province
From Angoche to Moma the only access bridge does not stand. Only high vehicles (truck) can cross the river bed during the dry season and at low tide. A new mining concession has been granted in Moma, which means road access will improve. We'll keep you posted.
Driving from Angoche to Moma: The bridge over Meluli River has collapsed a few years ago. As you approach an alternative route a couple of kilometers east of the old bridge, locals will guarantee successful crossings. This basically consists of turning your engine off, plugging the exhaust pipe with a piece of wood and getting about 20 men to push your vehicle across the river in about 1 meter of water, at low tide, through a pumping current. Needless to say we turned around and will come back with a better equipped vehicle.
Angoche, Nampula Province
This is an old port, once used for the traffic of slaves by Arabs and Swahilis. The town is quite pretty with a few colonial houses and a nice relaxed feel. There is a series of small islands (from Pebane to Angoche), unfortunately access to the islands was difficult and risky at this time.
Services: Bank and ATM machine are both available. There are few restaurants and bars along the main roads.
Communication: Very good cell phone reception.
TDM offer land line calls and internet services: +258 (0) 6 177 / +258 (0) 6 130 / +258 (0) 6 720254
Emergency Contacts:
- Hospital: +258 (0) 6 720211 / +258 (0) 6 720310 / +258 (0) 6 720088
- Police: 199
Sangage, Nampula Province
This old and unused Lighthouse sits at the top of a high dune with magnificent ocean views. It is possible to camp and we highly recommend a visit if you are driving a 4x4 vehicle (see Roads and Services for this sector).
Services: Not many services available apart from those offered by Mother Nature. No running water, electricity or telecommunication available. There is a small market in town where you can buy nice fresh bread.
Communication: Not available, nearest Angoche.
Emergency Contacts:
- Hospital: Not available, nearest Angoche.
- Police: 119